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  • Writer's pictureKarl Koerber

Today's Hike - Kokanee Glacier Park

Updated: Jul 29

Kokanee Glacier Park is a prominent jewel in the crown of Kootenay alpine areas. It draws hikers from near and far and is usually a bit crowded for my taste, but the breathtaking views and the richness of flora and fauna pull me back every few years despite the lack of solitude and silence that I prefer. I was lucky to get this hike in just before the local wildfire situation blew up and the smoke settled in.


The trail from Gibson Lake follows an old mining road for some distance, ascending through a subalpine forest transected by numerous streams cascading down the steep mountainside.


The conditions here suit moisture-loving plants like pink monkeyflower, Columbian monkshood, green bog orchid and many others.




Cow parsnip also grows in profusion along this section of the trail. That's Mt. John Carter in the background, named in 2001 after Kokanee Glacier Park's first ranger, who was killed in an avalanche while skiing just north of Kokanee Lake in February 1996.


Some of the other flowers growing along the trail are fringecup, false hellebore and red columbine.





After a couple of kilometres or so, the forest thins, and there are views of the mountains to the west, including Outlook Mountain and Mt. John Carter.


There must be dozens of streams rushing down the eastern side of the valley - meltwater from the glacier that is perched between the peaks above.


Although not my first choice, running into various individuals and groups and stopping to chat now and then was pleasant enough. I met a couple from Colorado, a family with some younger children and a small group from Britain, among others. I was happy to see a lot of younger, twenty-something folk out enjoying the park, like this group who braved the icy water of Kokanee Lake for a quick dip. The outlet of the lake lies at the 4.5 kilometre mark along the trail.


The trail follows the western shore of the lake, traversing several several talus slopes. I think that's Kokanee Peak in the distance. This is where Michel Trudeau, Justin's brother, tragically died when an avalanche swept him into the lake in 1998. His body was never recovered.


What little soil there is between the boulders supports various flora, including yellow columbine.


I saw a couple of hoary marmots and a ground squirrel or two, but far fewer than I'd seen on previous hikes. Pikas seemed to be totally absent. I didn't even hear one.


A short time later, I spied this bald eagle feeding on something - in all likelihood one of the aforementioned critters - down on the ground beneath it. I suspect an eagle hunting in the neighborhood may have had something to do with the local rodents (and lagomorphs, in the case of pikas) lying low.


At the northern end of the lake the trail crosses a wide, lush meadow, near the headwaters of Kokanee Creek.


At this time of year the white, pink and yellow heather is in bloom.


And this is as far as my old body wanted to take me this time. Not so long ago, I would have carried on to the Sapphire Lakes or another of the amazing destinations in the park, but, alas, neither my speed nor my stamina are what they once were, and I have to be content with shorter hikes as I creep ever upward in years. I'm grateful for what I can still do, though, and happy to have been able to experience the beauty of this special spot one more time.


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Karl Koerber
Karl Koerber
Jul 30

Yes, I've noticed that too. I think a lot of folk stop at the lake for a break and bring out their lunches or snacks. The marmots are also very tame and have learned to lick salt (I think) off people's legs.

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rverzuh
Jul 30

You've got a lot more stamina than I do, Karl, and once again with this post you have given us a chance to see some fabulous home territory we are no long able to view in person. Thank you and thanks for naming the flowers. Regards, Ron P.S. I hope the wildfires are staying clear of you.

Edited
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Karl Koerber
Karl Koerber
Jul 30
Replying to

Thanks Ron. Yes, we have dodged the fires so far and got a little rain over the past 24 hours, so hoping we make it through to the fall without incident.

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Jennifer Yeow
Jennifer Yeow
Jul 30

One of the great things about seeing your pictures is you give the names of the flora and fauna

Thanks

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Guest
Jul 30

Hi, Karl,

Thanks once more for taking us along with you on one of your forays into the amazing topography and wild flowers we have in the Kootenays. Last fall, we hiked up to Kokanee Lake. Of course, most of the wild flowers were finished, but there were still a few late ones. Still, it was a lovely fall day. There were lots of ground squirrels at Kokanee Lake, obviously very habituated to people, who unfortunately must feed them. They gathered around as we were eating our lunch, standing up on their haunches and begging for food. Very cute in some ways, but not so good that people are feeding them! Libby

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